An Alpine Address for a Rhine Classic
Some of Italy’s most interesting white wines reward a willingness to wander beyond the familiar names. This Riesling Renano from Maso Bergamini is a case in point: a grape associated with Germany, grown in the hills above Trento, with an approach that makes it worth a closer look.
This review draws on the producer’s description; tasting impressions of the 2024 remain to be confirmed.
The estate’s Riesling grows at approximately 550 metres on volcanic soils. Its described aromatic signature centres on peach and apricot, supported by bright acidity and a mineral finish. That combination holds considerable promise: stone fruit providing generosity, with freshness giving the wine definition and keeping the fruit from becoming heavy.
The detail that catches my attention is the producer’s use of two harvests. The first takes place in October; the second follows later in autumn, when frost and noble rot can contribute aromatic complexity. It is an intriguing approach to Riesling, potentially bringing together the freshness of the earlier picking and the greater richness of later fruit. The estate describes this as its general method, rather than a confirmed account of the 2024 vintage.
At the label’s stated 13% alcohol, I would approach this as a white for the table, giving it room to unfold alongside food. Pan-fried trout with brown butter, roast chicken with tarragon, or a mushroom risotto would be my starting points. Serve it cool, around 10–12°C, and let the temperature rise slightly in the glass.
The critical measure will be balance. Aromatic richness is attractive, but the acidity needs to carry it through the finish. Without tasting, neither residual sweetness nor persistence can be assessed, and an ambitious cellar recommendation would be premature.
What makes this bottle interesting is its specificity. There is a particular vineyard setting, an individual harvesting philosophy and a familiar grape seen through a Trentino lens. For a curious Riesling drinker, that is ample reason to pull the cork.
Verdict: Maso Bergamini’s 2024 Riesling Renano offers a promising combination of Alpine freshness and late-harvest aromatic depth. For drinkers who enjoy exploring Riesling beyond Germany and Alsace, this is an intriguing bottle to discover over a meal, with its ultimate quality resting on the balance found in the glass.
